How to Generate Your QR Codes

Learn how to turn digital links into print-ready QR codes using Tappr's free generator — paste URLs or upload a spreadsheet, tune size, margin and error correction, then download all codes as a ZIP.

This is Tappr's free QR code generator. Link: https://qrservice.onetappr.com/. No account needed. Use this instead of any online QR tool — those create redirect links that expire and can't be recovered.
You have two options. You can copy the digital links straight out of the file you received and paste them here, or you can upload the whole file. We'll cover both.
One difference worth knowing up front: if you upload the file, each QR code can be named after its product. Pasting links alone can't do that, because the product name isn't part of the link. For this to work, your file needs a column with the link and a column with the product name. The file must be an .xlsx spreadsheet, with a column for the link (Digital Id link, Link, URL…) and one for the product name (Product Name, Product, Style name…).
Starting with Paste URLs.
Open Supported URL formats to see which link types the generator accepts.
Every link contains one product identifier: /01/ for a GTIN, /240/ for a SKU, or /8013/ for a model number. /10/ adds a batch and /21/ a serial number.
Paste or enter your URLs in the text field, one per line.
Once you enter your link(s), check here. Green means the link(s) were accepted.
A red error means the link wasn't accepted. "Domain is not allowed" means the link isn't valid.
If you entered several links, the generator checks each one separately. Here line 1 was rejected while the other two are fine — fix the rejected line before you continue.
These settings control how the QR code is printed. The defaults work for most labels, but size and error correction matter for garments — we'll go through them next.
Size sets how large the code prints. At 300 DPI, 400 px comes out at about 34 × 34 mm; the preview shows you the real print size. The minimum for a care label is 18 × 18 mm, and 20 × 20 mm or larger is preferred where space allows. Smaller codes are significantly less reliable to scan, especially after washing.
Margin is the empty white space around the code. Scanners need it to find where the code begins and ends. Keep it at 4 — a code printed right up against other elements on the label often fails to scan.
Error correction decides how much damage a QR code can take and still be read. Always use High (H). For garments and textiles, higher levels are always preferred — the code has to survive washing, friction, wrinkling and wear over time. Low is not suitable for garments, and Medium is acceptable but not preferred.
Keep the background White. QR codes need a dark code on a light background, with no gradients or patterns behind them. Choose Transparent only if your label software requires it, and even then, make sure the code still ends up dark on a plain light surface.
Keep PNG. It's the standard image format for label printing and works with any label software. Choose SVG only if your printer or designer specifically asks for a vector file.
Keep DPI at 300 — the standard for label printing. DPI is what turns pixels into a physical size: 400 px at 300 DPI prints at 34 × 34 mm.
This section controls how each individual QR code file is named. Get it right and you can tell at a glance which file belongs to which product, without opening a single one.
What each placeholder does:
{product_id} — the product identifier from the link
{batch} — the batch or lot, if your link contains /10/
{serial} — the serial number, if your link contains /21/
{index} — a counter: 001, 002, 003
{date} — the date you generate the codes
{domain} — the domain of the link
⚠️ The most common mistake. If you type a product number yourself, every QR code in the batch gets the exact same filename, and you're back to not knowing which file belongs to which item.
Type {product_id} exactly like this, with the curly brackets. Don't replace it with a real number — the generator fills in each product's own ID automatically.
The preview shows the result before you generate anything. {product_id} is replaced with whatever identifier your links contain — a GTIN, a SKU or a model number.
You can combine several placeholders. Always put an underscore _ between a placeholder and the rest of the name.
This is the exact filename your QR code will get: product ID, sequence number and date, all filled in automatically.
Click Generate & Download ZIP. All your codes download together in one file.
The second way: upload the file you received instead of copying links out of it. Better when you have dozens or hundreds of items.
Open Expected columns to see how your spreadsheet should be set up.
Your spreadsheet needs at least two columns: the link and the product name. Any of the header names listed here works, and capitalisation doesn't matter. Batch and Supplier are optional.
Drag your .xlsx file here, or click to choose it from your computer.
Your file loaded: 7 rows in one sheet. Tick the sheet you want to generate. If your file has several sheets, each one becomes its own folder in the ZIP.
Use the same settings as in the Paste URLs tab.
Look at the placeholder list now: a second row appeared — From the spreadsheet: {product_name} and {supplier}. These two exist only in this tab, because the generator reads them from your spreadsheet columns. This is what we mentioned at the start.
The sheet name becomes a folder inside the ZIP, and each file is named after its product.
Click Generate & Download ZIP. All seven codes download together, and the ZIP is named after your spreadsheet.
Every QR code carries its own product name, so nothing can get mixed up. Place these original files straight into your label artwork — never rename, crop, resize or redraw them, even small changes can break scanning.